Category Archives: Colored Gemstones

Plume Agate

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Graveyard Point Plume Agate from Eastern Oregon. Cutting and photo by David Vance Horste. Courtesy DVH Designs.

Graveyard Point Plume Agate from Eastern Oregon. Cutting and photo by David Vance Horste. Courtesy DVH Designs.

Plume agate is yet another beautiful agate patterned with inclusions. These look like plumes of smoke or clouds—hence the name. Often the agate surrounding the inclusions is translucent. If cut so that the surface is at a diagonal to the plumes, they appear to rise from the depths of a great ocean to burst on the surface. If cut parallel to the plumes, the patterning can be flame-like. And if cut across the plumes, the patterns are like ribbed disks or starbursts. Truly a versatile stone!

The inclusions in plume agate can be just about any color, from white or gray, to yellow, orange, pink, green, bluish or bluish-green. One of the most appreciated is Priday Plume Agate which came from a site in eastern Oregon. It has since played out, but sometimes you can find old pieces. The plumes of Graveyard Point Plume Agate are almost golden in color. Brilliantly colored orange and yellow plume agate is found in Indonesia.

Plume Agate, Stinking Water, Oregon. Photo courtesy Barlow's Gems.

Plume Agate, Stinking Water, Oregon. Photo courtesy Barlow’s Gems.

The beauty of plume agates can be enhanced by setting or stringing them with stones or beads of similar or complementary colors. Some bead artists even combine them with hand-made ceramic beads.

How much does it cost? Like other patterned agates, each plume agate is unique. Prices can from $15 a stone to $150 a stone. (The price may depend on source name—such as the sought-after Priday. However, judge the quality and price of a stone by the attractiveness of its patterning, not by the name of the mine.) Strands of beads run approximately $10 to 15 per strand; large single beads can cost $5 and up. Rough plume agate costs $15 to $25 a pound.

Plume Agate, courtesy Indus Valley Commerce.

Plume Agate, courtesy Indus Valley Commerce.

How hard is it to find? Plume agate is available online and at shows. However, beautifully patterned, well-cut material may be more difficult to obtain.

What kind of jewelry can I put this in? All agates are tough and durable. They take and hold a high polish. They can be worn in any kind of jewelry—even belt buckles, cufflinks or bracelets that take heavy wear.

How easy is it to set? Very easy. Beware of buying stones with thin, sharp edges, however, which can chip during setting.

What are best settings for this stone? Bezels are the most common setting method for agates. As long as they are of suitable thickness, stones may be set with or without a backing due to their toughness. However, some plume agates may have a faceted edge, lending themselves to prong setting.

Artisan/studio dos and donts Avoid thermal shock which can crack agates and other quartzes. Keep them out of the sonic to avoid enlarging invisible fractures. Take care when setting stones with thin edges.

Plume agate, courtesy Indus Valley Commerce.

Plume agate, courtesy Indus Valley Commerce.

Wearer dos and donts Although agates are hardness 7 on the Mohs scale, they can be scratched by harder materials, such as sapphires, garnets, topaz, and diamonds. Avoid storing agates in ways that these other stones could come into contact with them.

 

 First published in Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist March 2012.

 

 

Timeless Coral

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A large cabochon of Pacific salmon colored coral set in sterling silver bracelet with 18k yellow gold accents. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

A large cabochon of Pacific salmon colored coral set in sterling silver bracelet with 18k yellow gold accents. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

Coral has been treasured for centuries. Precious coral comes in pastel colors of white, pink (often called angel skin), and salmon orange, but it is the deep red variety that is the most valued. Historically, the finest red coral has come from the Mediterranean. However, much Mediterranean coral is protected today. Stones from this region are being cut from branches harvested many years ago, says John Heusler, of Slabs to Cabs in California.

The waters off the coasts of Japan and Taiwan produce most of the high-quality red coral now coming onto the market. So-called “ox blood”—dark red–coral is in great demand, particularly among Japanese and Chinese buyers. Chinese collectors in particular are “insatiably consuming … beaded [coral] jewelry strands,” according to coral supplier Massa Gioconda SAS, in Naples, Italy.

This 18k yellow gold bracelet is set with Mediterranean coral from old stock. Mediterranean coral is rare, due to environmental protection. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

This 18k yellow gold bracelet is set with Mediterranean coral from old stock. Mediterranean coral is rare, due to environmental protection. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

In fact, coral beads have always been—and continue to be—the most popular form of coral jewelry. Drum or barrel shape beads are often chosen in Tibet, says Jeffery Wang of Pao Hung Coral in Taiwan. In the US, where coral is often combined with turquoise and associated with southwestern Native American cultures, bead buyers often choose tubular beads or those made from thin branches. (Coral is used in Native American inlay as well.) However, “round beads have always been considered a ‘classic’ which every woman should have,” according to Massa Gioconda.

Neckpiece of white and red branch coral with 18k yellow gold accents. Darryl Dean Begay’s work finds enthusiastic collectors in Asia, particularly Japan. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

Neckpiece of white and red branch coral with 18k yellow gold accents. Darryl Dean Begay’s work finds enthusiastic collectors in Asia, particularly Japan. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

Coral may be cut into cabs or carved into a variety of shapes. Freeform sections of branches “[inspire] jewelry designers all over the world for their one-of-a-kind pieces,” says Massa Gioconda. However, due to the increasing rarity, Heusler says he prefers to cut natural shapes. “We treat it like the finest opal. It’s a shame to cut to calibrated sizes [because of the waste].”

Coral grows very slowly. Older, larger coral is rarer, so larger cabs, carvings or beads are “exponentially” more expensive than smaller pieces. Price also depends on the quality of the coral—the desirability of the color, consistency of the color, its freedom from holes, pitting or other blemishes. In a strand of beads, the quality of the matching also plays a part. Wang says that coral prices, which are based on weight, range from US$5 per gram to US$2000 per gram.

18k yellow gold bracelet with turquoise and lapis. Native American jewelry artist Darryl Dean Begay draws on his culture’s tradition of setting coral with turquoise, but with a contemporary twist. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

18k yellow gold bracelet with turquoise and lapis. Native American jewelry artist Darryl Dean Begay draws on his culture’s tradition of setting coral with turquoise, but with a contemporary twist. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

Because it has been extracted for centuries, precious coral in many areas has disappeared. In others, the remaining coral beds are protected.

A perfect piece of red coral is all that is needed in this 18k yellow gold ring. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

A perfect piece of red coral is all that is needed in this 18k yellow gold ring. Photo courtesy of the artist, Darryl Dean Begay.

In addition, precious coral is found at ocean depths of 300 to more than 1000 meters where the water is clear, dark and still. To remain healthy, all coral demands fairly constant water temperature between 13oC to 16oC. When temperatures go higher or lower, coral begins to die. For that reason, coral suppliers express concern about global warming and rising water temperatures which may increase the gemstone’s rarity.

First published in Jewellery Net Asia.

 

Spectacular Spinels

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Hope Spinel surrounded by diamonds. Photo courtesy Bonhams.

Hope Spinel surrounded by diamonds. Photo courtesy Bonhams.

Okay. My bias is going to show here. But when it comes to spinel, I think it’s one of the most under-rated and under-used stones in the jewelry industry. Part of the reason for that is because it’s not as common as, say, garnet or tourmaline. But to have a stone that is beautiful, is rarely treated, is extremely durable (it’s an 8 in hardness and has little to no cleavage risk), that comes in a luscious range of reds, pinks, purples, oranges, and blues, and to make little use of it is, well, spine(l)less! (Sorry.)

You know they’re beautiful when enormous spinels found their way into the Crown Jewels of England and were, for many years, paraded as rubies. (They can be that good!) And just this past week, an AMAZING spinel was sold at Bonhams, the auction house, in London, for an equally amazing record price of £962,500 (just under $1.5 million). The so-called “Hope Spinel” was once owned by Henry Philip Hope, 19th century London banker who also once owned the Hope Diamond. (Full disclosure: the Hope Spinel buyer was not me.)

It’s the range of subtle color is what really makes spinels useful to a designer. You could create a brooch, bracelet or neckpiece with a lovely sherbet-colored palette of spinels, or use spinels as accents for a flashy cabochon of agate. A deep-colored spinel would be a stunning centerpiece for any ring–and there would be virtually no wear issues!

But spinels have gotten a bad name for something that is not their fault. Spinel, like corundum (ruby and sapphire), is easily and inexpensively synthesized. Probably tons of spinels are churned out to fill the synthetic birthstone market. A great many of the “emeralds,” “aquas,” “peridots,” and “diamonds” you see in birthstone rings, necklaces, and pins are synthetic spinels. As a result, many, many people have come to think that “spinel” is synonymous with “fake.” Not so! However, it does mean that designers have to educate themselves first and their customers second, on the beauties and desirability of spinels.

Spinel is not often found in caliber-cut shapes and sizes. This, too, makes them perfect for designers as the stones demand unique settings. If you want matching sizes for a particular design, you may end up having to commission a cutting job. That may get to be expensive. Although at one time the lack of market familiarity meant spinels were often quite reasonably priced, that has changed. When the prices of rubies started going through the roof, buyers looked for a suitable substitute. As a result, spinels are climbing.

But it’s still a stone worth looking for. Just remember: The Hope Spinel is taken.

All the Gems We Never Loved Before

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18kt YG and sterling ring, set with oval aquamarine (20.72ct) and white brilliant cut diamonds (0.705ct TW). Photo courtesy Todd Reed, Inc.

18kt YG and sterling ring, set with oval aquamarine (20.72ct) and white brilliant cut diamonds (0.705ct TW). Photo courtesy Todd Reed, Inc.

It’s been a truism that, for gemstones to sell, they had to be highly transparent, free from inclusions, and of good to excellent color, not to mention of the best modern cuts.

18kt YG and sterling ring set with three fancy cut diamonds, and round white brilliant diamonds. Photo courtesy Todd Reed, Inc.

18kt YG and sterling ring set with three fancy cut diamonds, and round white brilliant diamonds. hoto courtesy Todd Reed, Inc.

That is changing, however. Imaginative jewelry designers now showcase the individuality and beauty of pale pastel and translucent varieties of gems such as aquamarine. Old-fashioned rose cuts Continue reading →

A Growing Focus on Fair Trade

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14k gold rings, set with diamonds and fair trade Nyala rubies from Malawi, sourced by Columbia Gem House. Photo courtesy Trios Studio, Lake Oswego, OR.

14k gold rings, set with diamonds and fair trade Nyala rubies from Malawi, sourced by Columbia Gem House. Photo courtesy Trios Studio, Lake Oswego, OR.

The story of colored gems is not always a pretty one. At the mining and manufacturing end there is environmental degradation, child labor, death from silicosis, low wages, dangerous working conditions. For wholesalers, retailers, and consumers, an uncontrolled supply chain can allow treated, adulterated, imitation, and synthetic materials to masquerade as naturals, creating distrust among buyers and lawsuits against suppliers.

These situations are well known to consumers—especially the millions of socially and environmentally aware “Millennials” born in the final decades of the 20th century–through television documentaries and the Internet. Projected to have the greatest impact on consumerism since the post-war Baby Boomers, this demographic wants the same global and community awareness from those who provide their products. They already pay a premium for responsibly sourced products, such as coffee, chocolate, and beauty products.

18kw gold ring set with light green, untreated, Montana sapphire, approx. 0.60ct. Designers often focus on gems produced by domestic artisanal gem miners, such as Montana sapphires. Photo courtesy Nodeform.

18kw gold ring set with light green, untreated, Montana sapphire, approx. 0.60ct. Designers often focus on gems produced by domestic artisanal gem miners, such as Montana sapphires. Photo courtesy Nodeform.

As a result of the above–a desire to do “the right thing” for the environment and gem workers; to ensure the quality of the supply chain; to protect consumers against deception and themselves against lawsuits and tarnished reputations; and the demands of a rising market–a slowly a growing segment of the jewelry industry is turning toward fair trade or responsible sourcing in gold, diamonds and colored gemstones.

Special events at retailers such as Trios Studio, in Lake Oswego, Oregon, help raise funds for community projects, such as this well to provide fresh water to Ntcheu, Malawi where the Chimwadzulu mine is located. Photo courtesy Columbia Gem House.

Special events at retailers such as Trios Studio, in Lake Oswego, Oregon, help raise funds for community projects, such as this well to provide fresh water to Ntcheu, Malawi where the Chimwadzulu mine is located. Photo courtesy Columbia Gem House.

Essentially, fair trade advocates fair wages for and treatment of miners and cutters; enforcement of health and safety standards; protecting and/or reducing the impact of mining the environment; controlling the integrity of the supply chain to prevent fraud and deceptive practices; and giving back to the communities in which mining and cutting take place in the form of help with improved education, health care delivery and sanitation, infrastructure, and job training.

It’s a tall order. However, members of the jewelry industry are doing what they can in a variety of ways.

Fair trade suppliers emphasize mining practices that have a lower impact on the environment, often working with artisanal gem miners. Photo courtesy Nineteen48/Crown Gems.

Fair trade suppliers emphasize mining practices that have a lower impact on the environment, often working with artisanal gem miners. Photo courtesy Nineteen48/Crown Gems.

Columbia Gem House, in Vancouver, Washington, one of the first to promote responsibly sourced gemstones, has established partnerships with the Chimwadzulu Nyala ruby mine and the surrounding community in Malawi, as well as a top-quality cutting house in China in order to guarantee the integrity of the stones they sell. They pay above average wages and participate in projects that help raise the quality of services in the community.

Companies that focus on fair trade help ensure mine employees have safe working environments. Training develops skilled workers that ensures product quality. Photo courtesy Columbia Gem House.

Companies that focus on fair trade help ensure mine employees have safe working environments. Training develops skilled workers that ensures product quality. Photo courtesy Columbia Gem House.

Crown Gems, a British-Sri Lankan joint venture, provides a transparent gemstone channel from their own mines in Sri Lanka or those they trust to use mining practices with less detrimental effect on the environment. They partner with small, independent cutters and ensure they work in safe, well-maintained environments.

UK-based Rubyfair.com partners directly with miners in Tanzania to provide a tight supply chain of tanzanite, spinel, and untreated ruby and sapphire cut in Tanzania and imported into the UK.

18kw/y gold ring, set with fair trade Malawi sapphire, approx 0.60ct, and 0.04ct T.W. Harmony recycled diamonds from Hoover & Strong. Photo courtesy Nodeform.

18kw/y gold ring, set with fair trade Malawi sapphire, approx 0.60ct, and 0.04ct T.W. Harmony recycled diamonds from Hoover & Strong. Photo courtesy Nodeform.

Refiner Hoover & Strong, in Richmond, Virginia, reduces their impact io the environment by offering products made only from recycled gold. In addition, Hoover & Strong has introduced its Harmony line of recycled or previously owned diamonds.

Not only wholesalers focus on responsible sourcing. Retailer Ethical Jewellery Australia Pty Ltd, offers only Australian and Canadian diamonds. They buy colored gemstones only from domestic gem miners and cutters, or suppliers who have strict, transparent guidelines for sourcing and processing.

Although owners of the US-based Trios Studio, in Oregon, educate their clients year round about fair trade gemstones, a special, in-store event once a spotlights the stones. A percentage of the proceeds of the event goes to support community projects in Ntcheu, Malawi, where the Chimwadzulu mine is located.

Custom-made, 14k white gold wedding set, set with diamonds and fair trade blue sapphire from Chimwadzulu mine, Malawi. Photo courtesy Trios Studio.

Custom-made, 14k white gold wedding set, set with diamonds and fair trade blue sapphire from Chimwadzulu mine, Malawi. Photo courtesy Trios Studio.

For some designers, the concept of fair trade goes extends beyond the mine into the laboratory. Younger buyers, interested in responsibly sourced gemstones, are much more open than their parents to buying lab-created gems, such as Moissonite, sapphire, emerald, and ruby. In fact, designers, such as Konstanze, of Nodeform, and Tamara McFarland, of McFarland Designs, in addition emphasizing fair trade natural gemstones, give their customers the option of purchasing lab-created gems even for that time-hallowed purchase, the engagement ring. That fact alone should pique gemstone suppliers’ interest in providing consumers with responsibly sourced, fair trade gems.